Jewellery is a fabulous medium in which to work. We get to meet many creative and daring customers, talented goldsmiths and of course the global influencers that ensure the latest jewellery trends remain front-of-mind.
We are thrilled, therefore, to present seven of the Top Jewellery Trends for 2017 from the view of leading jewellery writers, inspired by the latest runway and emerging design themes in the world of jewellery design.
L-R: Dries Van Noten’s chunky gemstone drop necklace; AENEA’s Aquamarine Flow ring; enamel is set to shine in 2017.
1 Colour Riot
Rachael Taylor, jewellery journalist and writer for The Jewellery Editor tells AENEA: "After a long fascination with delicate, minimal diamond-set jewellery, we are going to see a return to colour and scale this year. Bright enamel and large coloured gemstones will light up cocktail rings and statement earrings.”
We have seen natural gemstone slices on the Givenchy runway, and Christopher Kane adorn Crocs with chunks of glittering quartz. Enamel, meanwhile, evokes a sense of ancient jewels with echoes of Italian and Indian design aesthetics.
Katerina Perez highlights ‘large rough stones’ as shaking up jewellery design, likening the riot of colour in jewellery to the playful use of bright tones we’re witnessing in cosmetics. “Stone cutters try to fashion gems so that their virtues are made prominent, and their faults disguised. But in the end stones can be stripped off of their uniqueness becoming just another ruby, sapphire or emerald,” she tells AENEA.
“So, if you love gems as they were created by nature, then it is time to get them out of the box and wear them. Wearing pieces with statement gems especially in their rough form will be in my opinion a hot trend of 2017.”
twitter: @ instagram: @katerina_perez
L-R: Loewe’s statement single hoops, AENEA’s undulating Waves hoops; Altuzarra’s statement coloured hoops.
2 Hoop-Hoop Hooray
Big, small, skinny or bold, hoop earrings are the style to watch — and wear — in 2017. On the runways of Marni, and Loewe, flat perspex styles and bold single hoops showed how divergent the hoop trend could become. With bold, rigid chain designs, Ralph Lauren is the latest major label to add hoops to its jewellery collections.
“It was the models at Altuzarra that stole the show with spirals in red, yellow and baby blue adoring their ears,” notes jewellery influencer Beanie Major, while reviewing the recent runways on her site Indtl.com.
Beanie Major - InDetail: https://indtl.com
twitter: @ instagram: @indetaillondon
twitter: @ instagram: @theadventurine
L-R: Looped collar from Loewe; AENEA’s diamond-set Quadrifoglio collar; Balmain mixes materials on the runway.
3 Collared Queens
There’s little doubt 2016 was the year of the choker. From black rope styles to velvet ribbons, pearl embellished chains and diamond collars, the choker made its mark. But 2017 will see the choker eclipsed by the bold strength of chunky collars and torque — wraps of metal, chains or even fabrics that encase the neck and make the wearer stand tall.
“The torque trend has been gaining momentum in the past six months, culminating in some truly extraordinary high jewellery debuted by the French maisons during Paris Couture Week,” wrote jewellery writer Claire Roberts, as the 2017 jewellery trends began to reveal themselves.
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“It’s the more grown-up take on 2016's popular choker trend,” adds Taylor.
L-R: Marni asymmetric earrings, AENEA’s rose gold Twinkle earrings; bold organic designs from Tibi.
4 Asymmetric Earrings
“A first outing on the runways in March, the oversized mono-earring was shoulder-skimming this season, with a single thread of gold or a swatch of fabric making the most impact,” notes Anne-Sophie Mallard of vogue.fr.
Draping chains or mixed material designs that cascade down to the shoulders will be worn alone or matched with a smaller drop or climber. Asymmetry and mis-matching earring will aim to create drama and intrigue; styles will be playful but also powerful.
“Mismatched earrings are destined to overtake in 2017 after the AW16 fashion shows at which Alexander Wang and Sonia Rykiel showed them in a new light, thereby igniting the public’s interest again,” Perez explains.
L-R: Ulla Johnson, AENEA’s pink opal Lazo & Bola designs; vibrant leaf earrings.
5 Rose Tinted Gems
“I believe we'll also see a shift towards feminine shades such as blush-pink sapphires and morganite in 2017,” Taylor tells AENEA.
These softer, natural hues follow the proliferation of Pantone’s blush-pink ‘rose quartz’ hue in 2016, which has steadily filtered into fine jewellery design, captured by stones such as pink opal, morganite, and the aforementioned sapphires and rose quartz. These gentler hues, despite or even because of the current global climate, will continue to evoke femininity and womanhood in jewellery design. A calming touch amid boisterous, bold and often sculptural shapes.
“Once again, the colour pink is predicted to do very well in 2017, not only with fashion items but with jewellery and watches too,” Stefanie Mändlein, director of German jewellery show Inhorgenta. “The pink trend matches the supposed trend metal of 2017 – yellow gold — and rose gold will also be complemented by pink.”
L-R: AENEA’s Candy Collection set with natural-hue diamonds; AENEA’s emerald and diamond Quadrifoglio collection; Amy Adams at the SAG Awards
6 Game, Set and Match
While the trend for asymmetry, longer chains and mis-matched styles might be huge in fashion, the world of fine and high jewellery appears to be keeping one foot firmly in tradition, thanks to the glamour of Hollywood.
With awards season upon us, the red carpets are teeming with dazzling jewellery designed to turn heads. So, will 2017 reinvigorate the classics?
“The most surprising trend from the red carpet so far this year is matching sets,” says Marion Fasel. “Emma Stone wore earrings and a necklace that matched in a significant scene of La La Land. And on the red carpet at the Screen Actors’ Guild Awards, Amy Adams wore an amazing suite of jewellery. They say you need three sightings to be a trend, so I am following this closely.”
L-R: Melissa McArthur baroque pearl ring; Baroque pearls on the Celine runway; AENEA’s Stella earrings with Tahitian pearls
7 Baroque goes Pop!
AENEA adores pearls, especially presenting them in fresh and unexpected ways — clashed with coloured gemstones and lassoed around the neck, or flowing from the ear like droplets of water.
Following jewellery’s many interpretations of the classic round pearl, 2017 marks the year of the baroque; a chance to celebrate undulating, organic and curvaceous pearls in all their glory.
Barbara Palumbo, the writer and jewellery lover behind Adornmentality, shares her insight: “I’m seeing baroque pearls used in a more modern, fashion-forward way this year, including in minimalist bracelets alongside precious metals and ear climbers accented with diamonds.”
Highlighting the misshapen features of baroques, Barbara notes the edginess these pearls are injecting into fine jewellery. “I have even seen them in necklaces made for men, which helps to put a contemporary spin on what is recognised as a timeless, natural gemstone."
twitter: @ instagram: @adornmentality
Want to know about more key trends for 2017? AENEA’s atelier will be happy to guide you on how to wear next season’s hottest jewellery trends. Contact us at [email protected]